How to Sew a Pa’u Skirt
01/23/2007
Since I get many Google searches on how to sew a pa’u skirt, I’m going to post a how-to based on what I learned. There are different methods, and one’s preference depends on the teacher.
First, you will want to get cotton muslin or similar material in weight. You should buy the standard width of 45″. If you buy larger, you will need to hem your skirt because the width is double. You will want 4-5 yards of material to make a very swingy skirt. For anyone above a size 16, I would recommend nearly 6 yards to get the same swing. You will also need to buy enough elastic to go around your hips 3 times. We use 3/4″ elastic. You should also buy 3 size 8 knitting needles.
Next measure yourself (or have someone do it for you) from hip bone to mid-calf. That is the length of your skirt. Fold the muslin to make the length. If you are using unbleached muslin, you will appreciate the extra material to prevent see-through. Although, you should make pantaloons or bloomers to wear underneath. The muslin should have finished edges, if not you need to allow for a hem and will probably want to finish off the rough edge inside so it doesn’t unravel when you wash it.
You will sew 6 straight lines across the double layer an inch apart if you’re using 3/4″ elastic. I marked my sewing machine with tape and then measure lines an inch apart as a guide to maintain straight lines. After you have sewn all the lines, make three strips of elastic long enough to go around your hips and subtract 5 inches. If you don’t subtract 5 inches, the skirt will not stay on.
Put the knitting needles through the elastic, leaving about an inch between the end and the hole. Now you feed all 3 knitting needles with the elastic attached through every other inch gap. The top inch space should be left flat, so if you look at the rows from top to bottom, you insert elastic in rows 2, 4 and 6. You will want to scrunch the material as you go. Be sure to either tie a knot in the end or put something on the end of the elastic so it can’t be pulled straight through. I found putting the elastic in worked best on a large table. You want to keep the elastic flat, so work slowly.
When you have gotten all the fabric on the elastic, pin it and then sew it down. You can finish edges as you wish. Skirts can be left partially open or fully sewn up the side. If you leave it partially open, you will want to hem the edges.
The top of a finished skirt looks like the picture below.

If you are familiar with making a pa’u skirt and have some additions or changes, please comment or email me.












Cindee said,
February 3, 2007 @ 2:03 am
Hi Liz-
Your instructions are very nice - mahalo!
If you use muslin, is it too thick to double the fabric to avoid the see-through problem?
Thanks!
Cindee
Liz said,
February 3, 2007 @ 10:49 am
You will find that it isn’t completely see through. I suppose you could double the fabric for the entire length. However, for shows, you wear pantaloons or bloomers underneath, so there isn’t any see-through. For practice, we don’t wear pantaloons.
Kristina Trento said,
February 11, 2009 @ 12:10 pm
hi liz,
thanks for the simple instructions. sounds like it will be quite easy. i am using 3 1/2 yards, i hope it’s going to be ok. i will also fold down 15 inches from the top, with the excess fabric on the outside to form a double skirt. this is according to our halau’s instructions. i will send you a picture of the finished product if you are interested in seeing another variation.
kristina
Cicely said,
May 31, 2009 @ 2:10 pm
I am trying to do a double layer effect pa’u skirt for a solid and printed pattern on top. do you know how to do that without the heavy weight of two materials together?